The Skinny on Synthetics

Last week I wrote about synthetic diamonds being discovered in Melee parcels.  I'm sure that was a bit of a scare for a lot of folks.  This week I want to give you the skinny on synthetics.

The first thing you should know is that there are two methods for growing synthetic stones.  The first is High Pressure-High Temperature(HPHT), the second is Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD).  According to Thomas M. Moses, Senior VP of GIA's Laboratory and Research Department, the processes used are both costly and challenging but produce gem quality stones.  However the diamonds produced vary greatly in characteristics.

HPHT:
Moses explains that HPHT was originally introduced by General Electric (GE) in 1954 and mimics the intense heat and pressure that crystallizes carbon into natural diamonds.  These kinds of stones are made in a press that is capable of generating these extreme conditions.  Today there are a variety of these apparatus all with a growth chamber where HPHT diamonds are grown from carbon molecules in a metallic solvent catalyst that is usually made of iron or nickle or a mixture of the two.

The growth time for these stones is on average one week, not too long but the growth chamber is very small, so only a few may be grown at a time.  Because of this draw back most HPHT stones are .50 carats.  Moses says that while this method has been around for over half a century now, it is only recently establishing profitability.  

THE CHARACTERISTIC OF HPHT:
Diamonds are scientifically classified by type based on the amount and location of the impurities they contain.  Almost all HPHT stones are type Ib, with up to 0.5% nitrogen dispersed throughout the stone.  Because the nitrogen is dispersed, almost all of these stones have an identifiable color.  The majority of HPHT stones are in the color grades H-P, the trace of nitrogen atoms is responsible for the yellowish brownish tint.  Under the Microscope, HPHT stones are inherently shaped differently than natural ones.  The HPHT method typically grows cube-octahedral like crystals.  Also, because they are grown in metallic solvents, some stones have metal inclusions.

CVD:
The CVD method differs greatly from HPHT in that "synthetic diamonds are produced by using microwaves or other sources of energy to break down hydrocarbon gas, such as methane, inside a vacuum chamber.  This causes carbon atoms to accumulate in thin layers on a flat diamond substrate-similar to the way snowflakes accumulate in a snowfall," explains Moses.  

This process is a slow one, only .10 mm of diamond can be grown per hour.  This method for growth also has it's limits in depth.  CVD stones over 3mm in depth are extremely difficult to grow.

The CVD method was first successfully tried by Huston, Texas-based chemical manufacturer Union Carbide Cooperation in the 1950's.  It is less costly and challenging than HPHT, but like the HPHT method it has only recently become economically viable.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OFCVD:
Due to their unique growth process, CVD stones are type IIa, which contains negligible amounts of nitrogen and high thermal conductivity.  This method produces flat tubular synthetic diamond crystals.  Because of the gasses used these stones are also brownish in tint.

SYNTHETIC TREATMENT:
Because of the synthetics and their inherent color, manufacturers have begun treating the stones, post-growth, to transform the unattractive brownish yellowish tints into vivid colors.  Through these processes most natural stones can also be altered to a desired color.

Companies like Suncrest Diamonds, based in Orem, Utah use HPHT processing for just this purpose.  Due to ongoing advances in the HPHT process, stones can not only be transformed into an array of colors, but also improved as white diamonds.

Not to worry here, the differences in Natural stones and Synthetic ones are well known and documented.  For a gem lab they are easy differentiators, to the naked eye of man, not so much.  I for one have no doubt that technology will continue to increase and the demand for "better than natural" looking synthetics will increase with it.  
            

CVD ALERT!

Synthetic alerts were first sounded in mid February, when the Shenzhen lab of the National Gem Testing Center (in China) received a parcel of 18 stones weighing 9.5 carats for certification. 

Diamond Lab Equipment

After DiamondSure and Diamond View exam-inations raised suspicions, NGTC used additional laboratory equipment to confirm all the stones as chemical vapor deposition (CVD) synthetic diamonds.  The parcel of stones was purchased from Hong Kong as a natural diamonds, without full disclosure to the wholesale buyer.

Shanghai Diamond Exchange

In April, another two CVD synthetic stones were detected by the Beijing lab of NGTC, and then two more batches between April and August.  In late May the Shanghai Diamond Exchange issued a statement with NGTC encouraging buyers to be cautious, and to disclose information properly.  As the second largest diamond market in the world, China’s trade members are concerned about these incognito synthetics; along with the risk of purchasing them without full disclosure.

As you can imagine this has caused buyers to be much more cautious with whom they purchase diamonds.  Some are avoiding Melee Diamonds altogether. While some are limiting their buys to only a select few trusted suppliers whom they deal with on a regular basis.

The important thing here is to get informed.  The National Gems and Jewelry Technology Administrative Center of the Ministry of Land and Resources of China held a technology seminar on CVD synthetics on September 2^nd and 3^rd in Beijing.  Sixty-Five of China’s gemologists, scientists, and government people attended this exchange of information.  The Ministry of Land and Resources also intends to work with other government agencies to prevent the undisclosed CVD synthetics from damaging the consumer market and the public’s confidence in it.

An Expose' on Flux

I always wanted a pair of real ruby slippers; I think most young girls having watched “The Wizard of Oz” do.  However, with my recent knowledge on the ruby market; I’m not so sure.  Apparently there are some fundamental misunderstandings when it comes to flux in Rubies.  You see we have been led to believe that flux was an unavoidable “residue” left over from the heating process and that borax was used to protect the stone from the heat.

Dr. John Emmett, President of Crystal Chemistry in Brush Prairie, Washington says that the flux which is present in some processed rubies is NOT a “residue”; but rather an infiltration that is fundamental to the processing.  In fact it is as fundamental as impregnating emeralds with oils or plastics to REDUCE THE VISIBILITY OF FRACTURES.

In laymen’s terms; borax is to a ruby what oil is to an emerald: make up.  It is solely for the purpose of hiding fractures and imperfections.  You see Borax (AKA: Sodium Tetraborite Decahydrate) starts to decompose by losing water at 80 degrees Celsius and the anhydrous material melts at 741 degrees Celsius.  This means that its melting point is well below the heat temperature for treating gems which is 1600-1759 degrees Celsius.  Therefore it could not by any stretch of the imagination protect the stone from the heat. 

In fact, you can drop natural corundum out of a furnace and into a bucket of water with out cracking it.  Apparently every heat treater knows this, it’s common knowledge among those whom are in the business of heat treating gems. 

To avoid getting too far down the rabbit hole of chemistry here, I’m gonna break it down.  Some Rubies contain deposits of Aluminum Hydroxide, which when heated turns into Aluminum Oxide.  Aluminum Oxide is amorphous and scatters light poorly (not so shiny L) it also leaves fissures or cracks in the stone.  In comes molten Borax, which wicks into the fissures dissolving the Aluminum Oxide.  These two components combined create Alumino-Borate compounds.  These compounds have high indicies of refraction and thereby do a fair job of matching the corundum; just as oils do for emeralds.

This is all fine and well when one knows they are buying a ruby with fissures that have been patched; rather than a ruby with natural “residue” from the heat treatment.  Gemologists now understand this misrepresentation, but the industry has called these fissure repairs “residue” for so long and has increased acceptance of the material, so the term remains. 

INTRODUCING THE DIAMOND DICTIONARY

This week I have to draw attention to the newest addition to Wink’s Diamonds and Gems Blog; and that is the Diamond Dictionary.  That is a reference guide of gem and diamond terminology.  A simplifying of all the terms and phrases that you have and will come across while enjoying our blog on the topic.  I found myself going and looking up words every couple of sentences while reading some of those diamond journals.  It’s one of those lingo things.  Unless you have gone to Med School, or read medical journals in your spare time, you don’t know the lingo.  Well before I met Wink, I didn't know the lingo; so while the English made sense it had no reference or weight in my mind.  I have had such fun learning these little tid bits myself that I had to share them.  So here is a little teaser of all the super valuable info you will find in the Diamond Dictionary if you just click the tab at the top entitled (Drum roll please…): Diamond Dictionary.

Carat :
The unit of weight by which a diamond is measured. One carat equals 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. The word comes from the carob seeds, whose consistent weight was used in times past to measure gemstones

Eye-Clean:
An term used in the jewelry industry to describe a diamond with no blemishes or inclusions that are visible to the naked eye (i.e. a human eye which is not aided by magnifying devices such as a jeweler's loupe or a microscope).  This refers to the view from the top of the stone, as many inclusions that cannot be seen from the top view can be seen from the side or bottom view.

Diamond Production Up?

Wink has given me stacks of Diamond & Gemological magazines.  I have been a busy little bee reading up on the topic.  I came across something I found to be very interesting.  Headline read:  GLOBAL DIAMOND PRODUCTION UP.  As you can imagine, I thought this was curious; it was my understanding that there was some amount of turmoil in the world regarding diamond production.  Naturally I read on, wondering where this increase in diamond production was coming from.

I was surprised to find that it is not so much the finding and cutting of new diamonds that is on the rise, on the contrary, by volume production fell 3%.  Rather, it is the price of production that is on the rise.  The following are some interesting stats to illustrate what this means:

As you can see the price of production in Botswana increased 45%, 11% in Russia, and 21% in Canada and on average 31% globally.  All this math means that the price of rough, uncut diamonds has increased this year, not the quality nor the quantity.  
FACT: both the Chinese and the Indians have started a strong engagement ring tradition in the past few years; which has greatly increased the world wide demand at a time when we might have expected the demand to go down, since the economy in the traditional diamond buying countries is way down.  That, coupled with the lowering of the physical production is why the prices are going up, even in a down economy. 

In my opinion, if I’m going be buying these stones for a higher price all the way around any way, than I’d kinda’ prefer it to be as perfect a stone as it could be; seeing as how I’m all ready paying premium prices.Wink has got that part covered.  High Performance Diamonds meet even the neediest of requirements for their qualification.  Keep that and those stats in mind the next time you find yourself at a jewelry store in the mall.  Just remember that the price of rough diamonds has increased, which means that most of your diamond retailers are going to do one of two things:  A) Hike up their prices to cover their cost or B) cut corners.

At High Performance, there is no such thing as cutting corners when it comes to diamond cut and quality.  You are always getting the best, irrespective of Global Diamond Production or Production Prices.    

An Introduction to Krystal with CMO Marketing:

Wink Jones, a legend in his own right, has entrusted yours truly with the writing of some of his blog posts.  My name is Krystal Moore, by nature and trade I am a wordsmith, but I have always had a fascination with shiny rocks.  Perhaps it is because I am a lady and perhaps it has something to do with my mother naming me after them, whatever the reason may be; I am keen on gemstones.  I am absolutely excited about this writing adventure. 

What do a woman and a fish have in common?  They are both attracted to shiny things... I am no different.  I, like most women, love the things in life that sparkle.  However, like most people, I just look at the sparkle and do not bother with the fine print or unobvious details.  That is, until I met Wink Jones, whom is not only a graduate from the Gemological Institute of America; but is in his 37th year of a love affair with gems.  I, being named after them (and currently having a covetous relationship with them) find myself thirsty for what Wink knows on the topic.

My goal in writing these posts is to bring diamond and gemstone buyers into the “know” on the topic.  I want to simplify Wink’s extensive knowledge and share it with all of you; so that you might go into your future gemstone purchases with an understanding of at least the basics.  Although, it is my ardent hope to share with you the passion for gems that Wink has as well as the expertise he has gained.

I don’t like to go into anything without knowing what I am dealing with.  I think most of us are apprehensive about investing money in things we know little to nothing about.  I understand that, and Wink does too.  This is why we have begun collaborating on this educational blog.  I want to know what I’m buying as well as all that went into that product; Wink is passionate about sharing his volt of information, expertise and experience on gems.  With his extensive knowledge and my apt for wordsmithing combined with my desire to make this somewhat overwhelming topic more feasible to understand; we should have you all armed with the know how to fearlessly purchase your gems and feeling confident that you got your money’s worth.  

There is something about paper that should make you mad!

One of the more interesting educational sessions of the JCK Jewelry Show for me was the presentation by Richard Drucker of GemWorld.

It was about ten issues facing the industry today and one of them was the issue of over grading by some of the labs. I wish he had done a more inclusive comparison, but he included only GIA, EGL USA and EGL Israel. His comparisons are pretty damning as they are, but I think inclusion of AGS (which is normally higher priced than GIA) and IGI would also have been informative.

Here is the information that was shared. The stone being compared is a 1ct G-VS2 with none to slight fluorescence.. In his comparison Mr. Drucker listed the high, low (range) and then the average, mean and mode of the stones looked at. For simplicity I am only going to list the Mode.

Using GIA as the benchmark, and thus 100% EGL papered stones sell for -27% of what GIA sells for, ie if you paid $100 for the GIA stone you would pay $73 for the EGL USA.

For the same stone papered by EGL Israel the cost would be -40% ie $60 for the same grade of stone that would cost you $100 from GIA.

Worse is the FACT that this same comparison two years ago had the same stone selling for -25% rather than today's -27% from EGL USA. From EGL Israel the spread from two years ago has changed from -33% to today's -40% meaning that in the opinion of retailers the grade disparity is getting worse. Grade creep is here and it is going to keep creeping for those second and third tier labs.

One wholesaler asked by Mr. Drucker why he carried stones he knew to be over graded said it was because his retailer clients demanded it of him.

Why do they do this?

BECAUSE THE RETAIL CLIENT BELIEVES THESE BOGUS PAPERS AND BUY THEM FOR THE "BARGAINS" THEY OFFER. Thus many retailers demand a steady supply of these insidious "certificates" to feed to their unsuspecting victims.

Sad. Very sad.

Does this make you mad?

Wink