Wednesday, November 11, 2015

[Wink Jones] Why are some diamond sizes almost impossible to get in properly cut diamonds?

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Dear Winks Blog,
 
You all know that I am more concerned about diamond cutting than any other aspect of the diamond.  I am firmly convinced that cut is the one quality that man has any control over in natural diamonds.  The rest of the C's are about rarity.  Yes, they have a HUGE affect on the pricing of the diamond, but a D-IF can be without sparkle if not cut properly. 
 
I am going to provide a link to an excellent article by John Pollard of Crafted by Infinity diamonds that I have on my website to share with those who are interested.
 
I am also going to cut and paste the entire article into this email, it is THAT important, and in my opinion interesting as John uses actual examples of diamonds that other producers forced 3-carats from, where Infinity would not have.  This is not theory, but cold hard fact!
 
(Note:  Somehow all of the pictures that I added to this have disappeared.  If you want to see the pictures, you will have have to go to the article on my site.)
 

Clients ask us *where oh where* are Infinity Diamonds weighing just UNDER 2 and 3 carats?

We asked one of the principals from Crafted By Infinity diamonds to explain and we’re glad we did. The answer is truly mind-opening. It demonstrates the amazing integrity of our friends at Infinity, and the info below will stop you from being tricked and terribly over-paying for a diamond!

– Article by John Pollard


At Infinity we offer a Cut-To-Order option which has become popular.

2.75-2.99 carats is a frequent request. This is no surprise. With our high-performance cutting a 2.75 carat Infinity Diamond faces-up larger than most 3 carat diamonds, with bolder brightness, bigger fire and snappier scintillation – staying under the 3 carat price hike. It’s an amazing value!

We’d love to produce dozens of diamonds in the 1.80+ and 2.70+ carat ranges. But we will not compromise our ethics.

Buyers Beware

Polished diamonds are cut from rough crystals sold by De Beers and several other mining houses.

Most diamond producers will FORCE a 3-carat diamond from a crystal that should only yield 2.50+ Why? Because even a horribly cut 3 ct diamond sells for ridiculously more. Cutting factories know it and scramble to gobble up any rough crystal that can be FORCED to 3-carats.

Thus: Crystals Infinity would craft to 1.80-1.99 or 2.70-2.99 are bought by others who outbid us.

Responsible Planning

In our hands these crystals would be cut as-follows. Pay attention to finished weights.

 
  • Crystal A is broken rough, with a pavilion gletz limiting depth to 5.53 mm
    Crafted with our high performance geometry you’d have a 2.72 carat Infinity
  • Crystal B is a standard octahedron, 9.17 mm at maximum width
    Crafted with our high performance geometry you’d have a 2.80 carat Infinity
  • Crystal C is a standard octahedron, 9.25 mm in maximum width
    Crafted with our high performance geometry you’d have a 2.89 carat Infinity

Isn’t that delicious? 2.72 ct Infinity. 2.80 ct Infinity. 2.89 ct Infinity. They’d fly off the shelf.

…So why were these Infinity Diamonds never produced?

Dirty Tricks

Others do not follow our ethos. We bid for such rough while (properly) planning for high 2 carats. Hundreds of others premeditate FORCING it to 3-carats so they easily outbid us. This story is repeated again and again. This dirty trick is why we rarely produce Infinity at 1.80+ and 2.70+

Continue reading to learn why “bargain-priced” 3 carat diamonds are often Dirty Tricks.

Forced Planning

The same crystals from above: Pay attention to reduced optics and no spread benefit for B or C.
** Retail prices are from the date this article was written


Summarized

We would love to produce diamonds 2.70-2.99 carats (1.80-1.99 too). Traditional pricing matrices and soft lab grading work in-favor of the old-school industry however. Rough suitable for beautiful high 2 carats becomes forced to 3 carats. Even when “discounted” to the bone, producers still laugh their way to the bank with windfall profit: They charge significantly more money for inferior optics, reduced performance and NO physical size benefit in most cases.

Is There Any Hope?

Yes. Once in a while a rough crystal is shaped so that another producer cannot save 3.00 carats from it. Then and only then, a Crafted By Infinity of 2.70-2.99 carats is born…

…Champagne


What About Re-cutting an Existing Diamond?

Great question. However, to minimize weight loss we need a strong starting-diamond. And for all the reasons above well-cut diamonds near 2.99 carats are scarce. Most fall below 2.75 carats when improved to our standards.

Recut Challenge

See for yourself. We challenge you to find an existing polished diamond with the following stats:

– Below 3.00 carats. Min girdle diameter 9.30 mm. Crown height 14.5%+. Pavilion depth 43.0%+
– (or) Below 3.00 carats. Min girdle diameter 9.13mm. Min depth 5.70mm
– No naturals, indented naturals or open feathers

If you can locate such a specimen let us know!

The Real World

Here are some existing polished diamonds just under 3.00 carats, and how they would recut
** Retail prices are from the date this article was written

2.99 carat F SI1 GIA Excellent | See the actual GIA Report
* Too deep, spreads like a 2.79 carat (normal) diamond, has AGS 2-4 performance
* If recut/improved to our standards, would finish as 2.50-2.55 carat Infinity, best case
* At 2.99 carats it’s selling for $ 41,783 **
– A superior cut 2.53 carat Crafted By Infinity, looking bigger, would retail for $ 34,914 **

2.89 carat F VS1 GIA Excellent | See the actual GIA Report
* Too shallow, spreads like a 2.95 carat (60-60) diamond, has AGS 4-6 performance
* Difficult to recut to our standards, would finish as 2.49-2.54 carat Infinity, best case
* As-is this diamond’s retail price is $ 59,822 **
* A superior-cut 2.52 carat Crafted By Infinity, looking bigger, would retail for $ 49,896 **

2.70 carat H VVS1 GIA Excellent | See the actual GIA Report
* Too deep, spreads like a 2.55 carat (normal) diamond, has AGS 3-5 performance
* If recut/improved to our standards, would finish as 2.28-2.34 carat Infinity, best case
* As-is this diamond’s retail price is $ 41,821 **
* A superior-cut 2.31 carat Crafted By Infinity, looking bigger, would retails for $ 39,501 **


The Crafted By Infinity Value Proposition

I hope the transparent information provided demonstrates why a Crafted by Infinity diamond is such a fantastic value. In every case above the resulting Crafted By Infinity would be superior in performance yet less expensive! Our ethos is not just about high 2-carat or high 1-carat planning either: This value proposition is the heart and soul of every diamond we craft.

  • To do what we do requires much more sophisticated planning
  • To do what we do requires better and much more expensive tools
  • To do what we do requires skilled labor
  • To do what we do requires more time in execution and fine-tuning to our standards
  • To do what we do means a smaller finished diamond

Yet this is what we do, because we feel it must be done to present the best VALUE to our clients.

I hope the above has been educational and illuminating.

– John Pollard


End of Article

Now you know why I felt this was so important.  In the rare cases when we can get these goods, they actually represent a tremendous value for your money.  

The really good news is this.  Over the past few months Paul Slegers of Crafted by Infinity Diamonds has been able to amass a large selection of diamonds just under some of those magic numbers, such as 1.50 cts and 2.00 cts. and even one at 2.71 cts. 

I have been selling Crafted by Infinity Diamonds since 2002 and I have never seen so many diamonds in these rare weight categories at one time.  If you want some of the best diamond values on the market, this is a rare opportunity at HighPerformanceDiamonds.com


Until next time.

Wink Jones
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